My daughter recently took up knitting so mywife asked me to make her a yarn bowl for Christmas. 
I had a Cedar blank, so off I went. 
Cutting the cedar round on my bandsaw looked like cutting a ham, the grain was very nice.
Turning the bowl was simple. Cutting the hook opening for the yarn, not so much. Rotary tool was too aggressive. Ended up using a coping saw, little short strokes inside the 6” diameter bowl.

   
   
   

And stabilized

I lost the honing guide from my Veritas Sharpening System. I still have the angle setter, so I only need the guide that holds the blades or chisels. The Veritas product number is 05M02.10. Please PM me if you have one you want to get rid of. Thanks.

Can anyone comment on the Stanley No. 78 10'' (SW12978) Duplex Rabbet Plane?  Quality? Complaints?

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Please excuse the cross-post. I forgot we had a finishing forum.

My next project will be made from pearwood. I've never used it before. I tried finishing a couple of scraps with Minwax wipe-on poly and the piece with the most figure looked blotchy. So I'm thinking shellac and wax. What say you? Any other or better choices? If shellac, what color(s) would you try?

Thanks!

Just stumbled on the Maslow CNC kits for $500
Looks like a really interesting open source design for guys like me that have some interest in CNC but don’t want to spend a bunch of money or use full flat space for it

There’s also Goliath CNC that looks like a viable small shop alternative but it doesn’t look like it’s available yet

I was edge gluing some table tops today.  Five-inch wide maple boards to make five 45" square table tops.  Used Kreg pocket holes to pull them together.

Since I'm still moving into new shop (where I was working) most of my tools are still in the old shop.

So I was looking for something to spread the glue when I spotted a McD's large drink cup with lid.

Found out that the lid made a great spreader.  Used upside down the curve is great for spreading a line of glue across the surface and if it gets a little too heavy the same curve can bring the extra back to the middle.  The thin edge can also be used to scrape up any extra that dribbles off the edge.

Works great -- try it for yourself!

I need to attach a face to a "drawer." I say "drawer" using quotes as there aren't sides or a back or a front; it's just a piece of 3/4" ply (19" x 5 3/8"...but that doesn't matter) which needs a 3/4" ply front attached at a 90 degree angle, natch.

A friend built some, but the results were a bit loosey-goosey.

How might one attach the 3/4" ply pieces with some modicum of sturdiness?

TIA

(I'm sure many folks recognize that I'm building the router bit drawers for the ubiquitous router cabinet that it seems everyone in the world has built.)

Several years ago I made some candy canes out of 3" Sched 40 PVC.  They are 4' tall.  They have a male threaded connection on the bottom. I don't remember why I put it there.  To date when I set them up I use 3 lengths of rebar for each one set in a triangle and the candy cane drops over the rebar.  This works but they tend to lean after a while.  Also this year for the first time in 8 years or so 1 blew over.  I want something more permanent - and secure.  If I were to embed 3" PVC with a female threaded fitting in concrete, would the male fitting screwed in be enough to hold them up?    I could turn down some treated lumber or cut it down to fit the ID of the pipe and use that as a reinforcement, or use a length of 2.5" PVC.     I would put a plug in the fitting in the ground when it isn't Christmas.   




Any other suggestions?

Our lake house remodel:
When they poured the slab it was a very hot day and they did not have enough help. They got it leveled but not finished. They put a plywood subfloor over the slab. Not sure of how they did this. I will be digging into this soon. 
Originally it had electric baseboard heat. That was replaced with forced air with ducts in the attic. Central air was also added at some point. The forced air is about 20 years old. I am open to leaving the forced air system in place just for the central air 
I am seriously thinking of pulling up the plywood subfloor and installing radiant heat. 
Any input or ideas are welcome 

I realize the sub floor will end up higher than it is now but we are going to replace the outer doors so this is a non issue and the interior doors will need to be adjusted as well 

I assume I will put sleeper on the cement- 16 inch centers. Some sort of foil faced insulation, pex and a new sub floor.