The chuck key on my 1/2" Steel City drill press is falling apart. What's a good replacement? Or are they all the same?

A quick google search indicated this is a 1939 Unisaw with a 1hp Bullet motor.  Located near DFW, TX

Link to Item:
http://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/tls/5779675976.html

Source of info:
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/UnisawTypeStudy.ashx


I'm at work now and can't go buy it, so someone else get after it.

Air dried Walnut finished with Shellac.  The panel was cut shop cut and bookmatched.  Overall dimensions are 9" across, 15" tall and 5" deep.  It's a version of a shaker hanging cupboard - but with feet and lacking the front panels on either side of the door.
Lots of things to do differently next time...but I like it anyway.

we have a lathe, aabout 4' tall, 5.5' long, and couple feet wide, that needs to get to our very own Arlin.  Oh it weighs quite a bit.  I would estimate it is in the 600-800# range.  it's definitely going to require a truck to haul.  I'm in the columbus ohio area, but get to cincy and toledo frequently.  If someone could get it from me there, and then get it to iowa, or somewhere west, that would be great.

Some time ago I posted a query concerning the Laguna 14-12.  To make a long story short, I upgraded to the Laguna 14bx with the 2.5 hp motor.  
What I really wanted was one of those Italian saws but no $$ and no space forced me to compromise.  The 14bx is a full frame unit (unlike the 14-12 which is a
unit on base configuration).  The 14bx sort of looks like a 3/4 version of its Italian cousins: perfect fit for my shop. 

Unit came shipped in styrofoam sarcophagus which easily took over an hour to break apart and fit into two very large garbage pails. That effort along 
with the breakdown of the shipping pallet took way longer that the actual setup of the saw. 

I was able to raise saw from horizontal to vertical position without assistance and got the mobility kit installed sans instructions. 

As far as instructions go, they are no better and no worse then the typical Asian instructions we get with most big equipment. 

I proceeded to install the Laguna 3/4" Resaw King and did a quick and dirty calibration of the table, fence, and guides. 

This was my first experience with re-sawing and I have to say, this is GREAT!  

I made some thin (maybe not veneer thin, but thin by my measure) cuts in cherry, cedar, and maple.  Here are some pics 
of the results:











The pic above shows a 9 1/2 wide piece of cedar and when I completed the cut, I measured a roughly 1/64" difference in 
thickness from the start to the finish of the cut: would this be the dreaded drift I've heard so much about?  I skipped the section
in the instructions pertaining to drift and just kept my fingers crossed.  Did i do good? 



I have to say I am pretty happy with the saw so far:  build quality is up there with the best Taiwanese machines. Time will tell
if this was the right saw, but at this point, I'd say it was.

And the chalk wins. There is an 8 ft long, 11 inch wide, 6/4 walnut board that I wrestle with almost every day in my shop. I love walnut. I love wide and thick walnut. But I hate this board. It thinks it is master of the shop. Well tonight the master met his match and the chalk won. I needed a suitable piece of wood for a current project and I stumbled over this board while looking. OK, wise guy, are you at least 11 inches wide--yep. Then you just won. As you know, rough cut walnut laughs at pencils and scribe marks. Knowing this, I immediately reached for the chalk and the square. Zip, zip and two pieces hit the floor. WTF? The split went that far?!? Well, let's have another go. Get the chalk. Zip, zip and two boards hit the floor again. ?!?!?! That was a two foot split. This 8 foot board is giving it up a foot at a time. So zip, zip three was the charm. Now I have a usable board and a very tame 5 ft piece of primo walnut.

It split because it was one side of the tree heart. Of course, it cupped a bit. That's where the scrub plane comes in.




Lucky for me. The defect is only about 1/2 inch into the surface of this piece. I think we have found the bottom. A little scrub work reveals some really nice wood.






So the lesson tonight is: Chalk is handy in your woodshop. And, when a board gets in your way, tame it and put it to work. Master your shop.

I am building up layers of Poly and using a wooden sanding block in between every two to three applications in an attempt to create a mirror like finish. The wood is White Oak and the surface has been hand planed. As I get closer to perfection, I am running into a severe amount of suction/sticking with 600 grit w/d sandpaper.

I have never done this before-any suggestions as to how to proceed? 

Thanks

Bought some cedar to make deck furniture and would like to keep it looking original instead of weathering to gray. Deck is covered so it won't get a lot of sun or rain. I understand that cedar does not take well to some finishes, any suggestions?

Since I don't recall ever seeing any products the answer is probably no, but I'm pulling the cables for the generator this weekend. In the same trench I will have 14/2 for a 15A circuit for the battery charger on the generator. I'm running right by a little island I have in the driveway with plants in it. Is there a product I can use to tee off to bring the 15A circuit to the island if I ever want low-voltage lighting there or do I have to run to the cutoff box at the generator and then come back? I wouldn't have any splices underground, just a tee. I'd pull the 14-2 through the tee to the island, surface a box there then come back to the tee and continue out to the generator.

Well, I was in my shop Friday night minding my own business when who should show up but Jim Ritter, aka Boatman53, of the 
world renowned Ancora Yacht Service.  This was no social visit, Jim was clearly a man on a mission, a mission to spread the word
about the slickest honing guide I've ever seen (and believe me, I've seen my share of honing guides). The prototype is made of machined 
aluminum and features and elegantly simple and fool-proof mechanism to set blade projection, straight or skewed matters not.  The honing
angle is set by indexing the wheel carriage against a built-in scale.  The carriage wheels can be positioned inboard or outboard to allow for cambered 
honing.  Even the allen key needed to change the carriage wheels is fitted right to the guide.  Its a big guide: dwarfing the standard guides we
have all used. It is outfitted with a recess to allow it to fit on the Tormek. It has adjustable indexing pins which allow support/alignment of smaller blades.
 Clearly the size alone puts it in the category of "Mother of All Honing Guides".  My name is on the list for one of these beauties: you 
would do well to get signed up for one: you surely don't want to miss out on this one.  Here are some pics of the beast showing how it can handle 
a Ray Iles mortise chisel and one of the new Veritas mortise chisels.