Harvested near Philadelphia
Four photos: rough cut face; partially planed face; end grain; and edges with and without bark.
Feels medium dense. Planes very smooth. Attractive grain. 4/4. 
Thanks

               

I have a Sawstop PCS and would like to make an outfeed table for it. Want something fairly simple that attaches to the back of the saw and swings down on a hinge (maybe a piano hinge?) out of the way when the saw is not in use. I'm thinking a couple of fold-up legs that have adjustment screws as levelers.

Would be interested in seeing photos from those who have built one, and/or your suggestions.

Thanks,

Doug

Finishing up my bathroom remodel. The contractors cut the drain pipe when removing the old vanity. I am in the process of building a new vanity. They cut the section off that points down.  I looking at the sections of drain pipe sticking out of the wall and scratching my head on how I am going to install new sections that point down over the remaining section that is probably glued on.

I know there must be an easy solution. Do they make those sections for these situations? or is there a method to remove the old remaining section so I can fit replacements on?

In case you haven't heard of it; here in the USA it would be most likely seen through www.wkfinetools.com; Jim Hendricks has developed and is selling "Alfie Shine" hard wax.  Now it's available through a few popular online sellers.

I've been using it, and would love to hear from others what they think.

Impressions over the last few months:

Assets:
- Acts as an effective cleaner; it always pulls dark dirt off the piece you're applying it to (particularly for tools).
- Very nice aroma, all natural, almost sacramental smell.
- Will fully mask other bad aromas, such as prior turpentines, on the piece.
- Nice sheen on the finish.

Things to get used to:
- Not an 'instant on, instant off' wax like Briwax.  It takes some time to cure.  Depending on how you read the instructions, 2 days before adding any extra coats.  I *think* it means also waiting 2 days before buffing, but the tin-instructions aren't worded exactly enough to say.
- My impression is that it's more finicky on surface preparation than some other waxes.  In other words, you have to be more conscientious on the sanding or burnishing of the surface, before adding this wax.  It doesn't hide finish flaws much at all.
- A sense of mystery... it has resins such as "copal"... how much of what you see is wax, and how much is resin?

Anyway, here is a picture.   The coffin plane has been treated with Alfie Shine.  Also, the (bare) QS Oak piece has Alfie Shine only on the left portion, starting at the location of the tin-can, and going left.

   


Happy woodworking,
Chris

Does anyone have information on DE planes? I know their history but I don't know how the numbering system works. I have a 5, and a 5 1/2 that are marked. I also have a couple that measure 9 3/4" but are not marked. The lever cap and blade are marked with the logo but the plane bottom is not marked. Another question I have is what is their value compared to a Stanley? If the plane is to be a user does jappaning have value as opposed to paint? Also what do you think the max temperature a plane should be subject to?  I have almost gotten my surface grinder ready and have started cleaning some up. Here is the procedure I have planned.

1. Bead blast the bottom and frog to remove all rust and jappaning.
2. Clean and polish the lever cap, chipbreaker, and blade.
3. Clean and polish all hardware.
4. Re-japan frog and bottom.
5. Grind.
6. Clean and refinish tote and knob. Replace when necessary. 

I am also planning on setting up to nickel plate when necessary. It is my opinion that a restored item should look just like it did when new.
 
Most of you have more experience with using planes than I do so I value your opinion.

Does anyone have information on DE planes? I know their history but I don't know how the numbering system works. I have a 5, and a 5 1/2 that are marked. I also have a couple that measure 9 3/4" but are not marked. The lever cap and blade are marked with the logo but the plane bottom is not marked. Another question I have is what is their value compared to a Stanley? If the plane is to be a user does jappaning have value as opposed to paint? Also what do you think the max temperature a plane should be subject to?  I have almost gotten my surface grinder ready and have started cleaning some up. Here is the procedure I have planned.

1. Bead blast the bottom and frog to remove all rust and jappaning.
2. Clean and polish the lever cap, chipbreaker, and blade.
3. Clean and polish all hardware.
4. Re-japan frog and bottom.
5. Grind.
6. Clean and refinish tote and knob. Replace when necessary. 

I am also planning on setting up to nickel plate when necessary. It is my opinion that a restored item should look just like it did when new.
 
Most of you have more experience with using planes than I do so I value your opinion.

The YouTube video is just over an hour long but it was really neat to watch and see that you do not need longs to turn with.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BXbK5kZcgk


Tell me what you think

Episode 5 of Woodcademy is now streaming on Amazon Prime! (the teaser video above was made back in October)

We are building a set of dining chairs in episodes 5 and 6 using a simple steam bend and we'll show you how to make and use a template sled along the way.
Remember it is free to view even if you do not have a Prime account.
[url=http://www.woodcademy.com/wctv][/url]

I inadvertently bought 2 and never got around to returning one. Still in the original clamshell package
Model WR300 TYPE 2 (AAA battery not included)
$20 and I'll ship it free ..or pick up in Elgin SC just outside of Columbia.
You can contact me martinamell1959@gmail.com or call 6149753019 if interested..

In the past couple weeks or so I posted a thread asking about jointers, and after the topic of old ones came up a couple or three people mentioned old square cutterheads. I was able to find some info and pics on them but only one or two videos. I'm wondering some stuff about them, though, that I couldn't find.

Someone in that other thread mentioned that they can pull your hand in. Why are they more prone to doing that than a circular head? The corners of square objects still trace out a perfect circle when spinning (think a square blank on a lathe). However, the heads that I have seen in pictures and videos don't look perfectly square...maybe a little bit rectangular even, with the ends of the longer sides holding the knives. Is this what causes the "pulling" phenomenon or is it something else?

The questions have been on and off my mind the past couple weeks, so I thought I'd ask.