Not mine but I though someone here might be looking.

Quote:Northfield #1table saw. 5 HP, 3 phase, 16” blade. 3.5” doc, 4.5” with 18” blade. Includes Beismeyer fence with 60” crosscut capability. Also includes auxiliary sliding table. 1200 # of cast iron. Saw is only one of 355 produced. It does have a vintage aspect as it was made in 1946. It can be seen under power. Table was recently reground flat. Table tilts for angular cuts. It also goes up and down for blade height. A piece of history ready to go.

Jessem Router Table Package

Sold $700 - Local Sale Only (Houston, Texas)

GREAT CONDITION – CLEAN – COMPLETE

This router table package is ready to go. It includes the following:

Jessem 24x32 Phenolic Top
Jessem Heavy Duty Tubular Steel Base (Not Just Angle Iron)
Jessem Mast-R-Lift (Made in Canada not China like the current one)
Jessem 4-piece Insert Ring Set
Jessem Mast-R-Fence with Phenolic Sub-Fence (Not fiberboard like the current one)
Rockler Safety Switch
Porter Cable 7518 3-1/4hp 5-speed Motor (Made in USA not Mexico like the current one)

Also includes 1/4” collet, 1/2” collet, insert ring wrench, Bondhus hex driver, height adjustment crank, two wrenches and a Porter Cable 75361 fixed router base.

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I'm replacing a 30 yr. old duplex outlet that bit the dust with a modern one.  Old=bottom in the pic, New=top.  There are two black, two white, and a ground twisted with at least one ground wire from another box. I don't know where the extra pairs come from (getting power to, e.g., another outlet?) The receptacle tester shows "open neutral".  The old outlet has only four push-in slots-2 on each side.  The new model has four on each side.  I installed the blacks in the brass slots on the outside of the four, and the same for the white wires.

For a moment, I thought to try as many scenarios as I could but 1) I'm guessing that would be a bunch of possibilities, and 2) my last math class was around 50 years ago, so I decided to punt.  (Late breaking guess-use the screws rather than the push-in slots? Only 2 on each side.)

Help. (Sorry for the bad pic.)

Thanks

There is fine furniture, hand-crafted with traditional techniques, and invested with the blood, sweat, and dare I say soul of the craftsman who labors to transform natural materials into works of fine art. This is not that. It is a plywood desk. It exists at the four way intersection of my time, my wallet, my hatred of particle board furniture, and my son's desire to have a desk, painted black, some time before Christmas.
For some, math brings joy. For others, it is just tedious, soul crushing work. My son falls into the later group, as did I at his age. So this was a good opportunity to work with him on how to measure in fractions, do some basic area calculations to consider what could be made from a sheet of plywood, and manage a budget. These practical applications seem a lot more interesting to him than the more conceptual approach favored by his educators. He did pretty good with his budget of $100. We spent $86 on two sheets of cheap Ecuadorian Sandeply and two 8' long 1x2s, and the balance of his budget on knobs and hinges. I have agreed to subsidize another $20 in paint, and I happened to already have a giant pile of random rock maple offcuts in the scrap bin from which to make runners.
We have been chipping away at the desk for a few hours each day now for a week. Here is the story of the desk so far:

It all starts with a 4x8 sheet of Ecuadorian import ply. First cut establishes the table top and sides.


This stuff sucks. It was in his budget, and since this is going to be painted black, I refused to give up any of my BB or FAS grade material to it. But I probably should have, because this stuff drives me nuts to work with. Big plies of softwood and outright filler, with tons of voids all through it.


Anyways, now was also a good time to route a dado (groove) along the backsides of the cabinet carcass, so that I'd know everything would line up perfectly when I assembled it.


With the work requiring a fair bit of reach out of the way, I let my son do all the cross-cutting. The tracks were clamped to the pieces being cut, and the ergonomics of this saw are such that little fingers are kept well out of the way of spinning blades. Even so, VincentEgo demonstrated some solid handling skills that made Dad give him 1 3/4 thumbs up, the maximum I've been able to give anybody since I learned why you don't use a fence and a miter gauge at the same time, the hard way.


Thus ended Day 1.

I know...take it in the house!


My shop is a (mostly) unheated garage. Does anybody have any ideas for a small "warming oven" to keep my glues from freezing? Maybe something I could run on a thermostat.

Thanks

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/zip/d/r...50547.html

Is waxed shellac OK to use for a tabletop or should I use a dewaxed?

Edit:  Should have Googled my own answer:

'If you want just a shellac finish only then it will be fine - but if you want to apply WB or solvent base coatings over it switch to dewaxed sealcoat which can be safely used for that purpose."

Since I am finishing with shellac, sounds like I am good to go.

New, or continuing publication, Pop Wood website: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/

I stumbled through the site and there are several free articles and blog posts many here will find of interest. Enjoy your trip!

Looking for figured hardwood in Northwest In.
Does anyone remember Lavern from Elkhart county?
He operated a circular mill and kiln.
Thanks
Tim

This NIB, unopened jig is the older style jig - before 2005
Pickup only in CA - the eastern edge of the Inland Empire

Rockler Dovetail Jig by Curt Putnam, on Flickr